Climbing harness basics

The harness is the bit of kit that ties you to the rope, so it earns a little attention. The good news is that any harness sold by a reputable brand is certified to hold far more than you will ever load it with, so you do not need to agonise over safety margins. What matters more is choosing one that fits, suits the climbing you do, and gets retired before it wears out. Here is what to look for.

The parts of a harness

A sit harness, the standard type for almost all climbing, is made up of a few key elements:

• The waist belt, which carries most of the load and where you do up the buckle.
• The leg loops, which support your thighs and stop you tipping backwards when you hang.
• The belay loop, the strong sewn loop at the front that you clip your belay device into and that takes the most direct load.
• The tie-in points, the two reinforced loops above and below the belay loop that you thread the rope through when you tie in.
• Gear loops around the sides for racking quickdraws, slings and other kit.

Different harnesses prioritise different things. Sport and gym harnesses are light and minimal. Trad and alpine harnesses have more, sturdier gear loops to carry a full rack. For most people climbing indoors and on bolted routes, a comfortable all-round harness is the right call.

How it should fit

Fit is where comfort and safety meet. The waist belt should sit above your hip bones and do up snug enough that you cannot pull it down over your hips. This is the single most important point: if a harness can slide off over your hips, it is not safe, and that is especially worth checking on smaller climbers and children.

The leg loops should be snug but not tight enough to cut in, with room for the layers you might wear. Many harnesses have adjustable leg loops, which helps if you climb in shorts in summer and trousers in winter. Hang in the harness in the shop if you can, because a harness that feels fine standing up can dig in unpleasantly once you are weighting it on the rope.

When to retire it

Harnesses do not last forever, and they are not something to nurse along past their best. Inspect yours regularly, paying close attention to the belay loop and tie-in points, since these take the most wear.

Retire a harness if you see:

• Fraying, fuzzing or cuts in the belay loop or tie-in points beyond surface fluffing.
• The coloured wear indicator showing through, on harnesses that have one.
• Any sign the stitching is coming undone, or the webbing is stiff, faded or damaged.

Beyond visible damage, manufacturers give a maximum lifespan even for an unused harness, because the materials degrade with age. A harness that has taken a heavy fall, been stored badly or simply got old should be replaced. It is cheap insurance for a piece of kit your life hangs from.

Keep a rough note of when you bought your harness and any big falls it has taken. It makes the retire-or-keep decision easy, and it is one less thing to second-guess when you are racking up at the bottom of a route.