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Training, technique, the board and life on the wall — notes from the team behind Sendit.
Latest · Training & techniqueThumb catches: how your thumb turns a bad hold into a good one
Most climbers grip with four fingers and leave the thumb doing nothing. Where a thumb catch helps, the four ways to use it, how to set it without tweaking anything, and the drills that make it a habit.
Training & techniquePalming: how to push when there is nothing to pull
Palming means pressing an open hand against a hold, a volume or the rock itself so it holds you in place. Where it turns up, how to set the hand, why the arm stays straight, and the drills that teach you to trust it.
Training & techniqueDeadpoints: how to catch a hold at the top of the move
A deadpoint is a quick, controlled reach where you catch the next hold at the moment you stop rising. What it is, how it differs from a dyno, how to time the catch, and the drills that make it quiet instead of desperate.
Training & techniqueCross-throughs: how to reach past your other hand without tying yourself in a knot
Crossing through means reaching over or under your other arm to the next hold instead of matching. When it beats a match, how to set your hips and feet so it feels solid, and the drills that make it a move you reach for rather than avoid.
Training & techniqueSit starts: how to pull on from the ground without wasting the first move
A sit start means beginning a boulder problem with your backside on the pad. What the convention actually is, why the first move feels so awkward, how to set your feet and hips before you lift off, and the drills that make low starts feel normal.
Training & techniqueTwist locks: how to turn side-on and reach further on steep ground
A twist lock is turning your hip into the wall so the holding arm stays long and the reaching arm gains distance. What it is, how it differs from a backstep and a drop knee, how to set one up, and the drills that make it automatic.
Training & techniqueHand-foot matches: how to put your foot where your hand was
A hand-foot match is getting a foot onto the same hold your hand is still on. Where it turns up, how to make room on the hold, how to get the foot that high without falling off, and the drills that make it feel normal.
Training & techniqueEdging: how to stand on small footholds and trust them
Edging is putting a precise part of your shoe on a small, positive foothold and standing on it. Inside edge, outside edge and front point, how to place each one, how to keep the foot still once it is on, and the drills that make tiny footholds feel bigger.
Training & techniqueBackstepping: how to turn your hip into the wall on steep ground
A backstep puts the outside edge of your shoe on a foothold behind you and turns your hip into the wall. How it works, why it saves your arms on anything overhanging, how it differs from a drop knee, and how to make it the move you reach for without thinking.
Training & techniqueLaybacks: how to climb a flake by leaning away from it
A layback turns a crack or flake with no holds in it into a ladder, by pulling one way with your hands and pushing the other way with your feet. How the opposition works, where to put your feet, why straight arms decide how long you last, and how to get off one before the pump gets you.
Locations & cragsWet sandstone: why you wait for it to dry
Sandstone is at its weakest when it is wet, and a hold that breaks does not come back. Why damp rock crumbles, how to tell when it is properly dry rather than dry on the surface, and what to climb instead on a wet weekend.
Training & techniqueMantles: how to top out a boulder problem
Indoor bouldering ends at a hold. Outdoors it ends on top of the boulder, and the last move is usually the one nobody has practised. How a mantle actually works, why the press is a hip move rather than an arm move, and how to build the skill before the highest problem of your life asks for it.
Training & techniqueChimneys: how to climb the wide stuff without fighting it
A chimney has no holds and no obvious way up, so most climbers try to muscle through it and come out exhausted. How back-and-foot, bridging and the squeeze actually work, and how to rest inside a feature that looks like it has nowhere to rest.
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