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How to project a climb above your level

Breaking a hard route into moves, working sections, and stringing it together without burning out.

The Sendit Team··6 min read
A climber on an outdoor rock face

A project is a climb you can not do yet. That is the whole point. If you could flash it, it would be a warm-up, not a project. The skill of projecting is learning to make steady progress on something that feels impossible on day one, without grinding yourself into the ground before you ever reach the top.

Read it before you touch it

Before you pull on, spend a few minutes just looking. Stand back and trace the line. Where are the obvious holds, where does it go quiet, where does it steepen. Most hard climbs have one or two cruxes and a lot of connecting tissue. If you can guess where the hard bit lives, you can plan your energy around it.

When you do start touching holds, treat the first session as reconnaissance rather than a redpoint attempt. You are gathering information: which crimp takes a thumb, whether that sloper wants an open hand, where the feet actually are once you are weighted on the wall rather than guessing from the ground. Brushing the holds you will use is not optional on a project. Chalked-up, greasy holds will quietly cost you the send.

A project is built backwards from individual moves. Get each one to feel repeatable on its own before you worry about doing them in sequence. A move you can only hit one time in five is not solved, it is a coin flip, and coin flips do not stack.

Once the moves go reliably, start linking them. A useful order:

  • Solve every move in isolation, including the foot sequence and body position, not just the hands.
  • Link the crux into the move before it and the move after it, so you arrive in the right shape and leave in control.
  • Build longer chains from the top down, so each redpoint burn ends on ground you already trust.

Working the top section first sounds odd, but it means your most tired attempts always finish on familiar territory. You rarely fail a redpoint because you forgot the moves. You fail because you arrive at a hold a few degrees off, on a pump you did not plan for.

Manage the body, not just the beta

The fastest way to ruin a project is to throw yourself at the crux twenty times in a session with ninety seconds of rest. You will get worse as the session goes on, reinforce the wrong movement, and load your fingers when they are already cooked. Hard tries need real rest between them, often five minutes or more, so each go is a fair test rather than a tired one.

Keep sessions short and frequent rather than long and desperate. Two focused board or wall sessions a week, with the project in the first half while you are fresh, beats one marathon where the last hour is all flailing. Projecting steep ground is finger-intensive, so if your skin or your tendons are talking to you, listen. A tweaked pulley costs weeks; a missed session costs nothing.

Keep notes and stay patient

The annoying truth about a real project is that progress is not linear. You will have a session where it all clicks, then three where it feels harder than ever. That is normal, not a sign you have lost it. Conditions, skin, sleep and nerves all move the needle.

Write down what you change between sessions: the new foot, the heel hook that turned a deadpoint into a static reach, the breathing on the rest. When you come back a week later you will have forgotten half of it, and the notes save you from re-solving moves you already cracked. Logging your attempts and the beta that worked is exactly the kind of memory a tool like Sendit can hold for you, so the climb is the only thing you have to carry.

Header photo by Rahadiansyah